MAKING A KEYRING
Each keyring is made to order, by hand, from high quality materials.
step 1
PREP
The process begins by cutting a strip of Hermann Oak tooling leather. Using a template, the keyring shapes are carefully drawn with a pen and cut out with special scissors for cutting leather. The stitch line is marked with wing dividers, and tape is applied to the back to prevent stretching, ensuring the leather is properly prepared for the next steps.
step 2
CARVING
After wetting the leather to make it more pliable, the design is drawn onto the leather with a stylus using a template that I designed. A swivel knife is then used to carve the design into the leather, laying the foundation for detailed tooling work.
STEP 3
TOOLING
Once the design is carved, specialised tools such as a beveler and thumbprint, among my favourites, are used to create the intricate patterns. These tools are tapped repeatedly with a maul (hammer), while slowly moving the tool over the leather which imprints the design and adds depth and texture. After tooling, the keyring is left to dry, revealing a rich, detailed pattern.
step 4
PAINTING
In-between tooling and painting the keyrings are oiled to soften the leather, helping them last longer. Oiling also helps the dye to dry evenly.
Some keyrings are hand painted, whether this be with acrylic paints or oil dyes or a combination of the two. Multiple colours are often used to enhance the design. After painting, the keyrings are left to dry before moving on to the next step.
step 5
ANTIQUING
After the keyrings are painted they are sealed to prevent the antique dye, from penetrating anything under the coat of sealer.
Whether painted or not, all keyrings are antiqued to add richness and depth to the grooves, highlighting the carving and tooling work. After antiquing, they are again sealed to protect the design and help prevent the paint and antique dye from being rubbed off.
step 6
SEWING PREP
Before sewing, the middle edges of the keyring where the ring sits are burnished. The ring is then placed, and the leather pieces are glued together and left to dry, securing the keyring, ready for stitching.
step 7
SEWING
Once the glue has dried, the keyring is sewn using a heavy-duty industrial sewing machine and high quality thread, ensuring strong, durable stitching. After sewing, the thread ends are burned and pressed down, making a plug and stopping the ends from undoing, creating a clean finish.
step 8
BURNISHING PREP
First the excess leather on the back of the keying is cut off to match the shape of the front. The edge is then sanded until both pieces of leather are smooth and flush. An edge beveler is then used to round the edges, both front and back, ensuring the final product has no harp edges. The edges are then dyed and left to dry before the burnishing process begins.
step 9
BURNISHING
Tokonole is applied to the edges of the leather to seal and lubricate them before burnishing. A machine with a wooden wheel and various-sized grooves burnishes the edges, creating a smooth and shiny finish through friction. Afterward, beeswax is applied for durability, and occasional hand burnishing may be needed to tidy up the edges. And that’s how a keyring is made.
step 10
WRAPPING
After passing a final quality check, the keyring is expertly wrapped with care. It's now ready to be sent to its new home, where the craftsmanship and attention to detail will shine through for the customer to enjoy!
